French Cosmetic Industry Shifts To Vitro Testing To Beat EU 2009 Ban On Animal Testing


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November 16, 2007 6:58 p.m. EST

Topics: science and technology
Vittorio Hernandez - AHN News Writer

Grasse, France (AHN) - French cosmetic companies are now shifting to in vitro testing in an effort to find an alternative way to test beauty and wellness products. The change comes after a new European Union law prohibits the use of animals as test subjects by 2009.

Much of the research work is done in Provence, a French region known for manufacturing fragrances and having professional smell experts. The EU ban, fought vigorously by France, was upheld by the European Court of Human Justice, after France appealed its case.

However, according to a European Commission report the number of animals used by the cosmetic industry is small compared to those used as test subjects by the medical industry and educational institutions. But the numbers still doubled in Europe to over 5,500 animals in 2006 from 2002.

As a run-up to 2009, European regulars periodically issue reports how many laboratory animals' lives have been spared due to alternative research methods. An additional EU legislation called Reach mandated companies in the 27-member bloc to have a record of safety information over the nest 11 years on 30,000 chemicals used in the manufacture of food, drugs and cosmetics.

Because of the EU prohibition cosmetic firms, even fierce competitors, now share trade secrets in order to survive in Europe's $23.4 billion (16 billion euro) beauty product market.

Dr. Alan Goldberg, director of John Hopkins University's Center for Alternative to Animal Testing in Baltimore, said, "Without question these regulations are having an impact," adding, "What company is going to want to eliminate 450 million customers by not complying?"

Regulators and cosmetic companies are spending big money on research. So far the EC has spent almost $36.6 million (25 million euro) on alternative testing ventures. French firm L'Oreal has used over $800 million in the past two decades for development of other testing methods, while U.S.-based Procter and Gamble spent almost $225 million.


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